Around Chicago: Intelligentsia Coffee
The prize for my morning bike ride yesterday was a trip to Intelligentsia Coffee at 3123 N Broadway, just south of Belmont in East Lakeview. It's a specialist coffee shop, sort of a Starbucks for people who really care about coffee.
I was thrilled to see that the shop uses the Clover coffeemaker. This is an $11,000 piece of equipment that combines the best of the French press and the vacuum process to make the ultimate cup of coffee. According to Wired Magazine, there are only 250 of these machines in existence, and here were three of them! The Clover has been bought by Starbucks, which thus far has only deployed it in four U.S. cities - Seattle, San Francisco, Boston and Miami. At Starbucks, a cup will set you back $4. At Intelligentsia, it's more like $2.
The baristo told me that some of the machines were purchased before Starbucks bought the technology, and others were sourced on the "gray market." (Note to self: check eBay and Craigslist for Clover machines)
Was it worth the fuss? Absolutely! Critics of Starbucks call the chain "Charbucks" because so much of the flavor comes from over-roasting inferior beans. This cup, made with Itzamna Guatemala la Soledad beans, was almost wine-like in having multiple overtones, with notes of cherry, vanilla, licorice as well as traditional coffee richness. I drank about half black, then added some cream. Delightful both ways.
The interior has an urban hipster vibe, with dyed concrete floors, ambient music, and a cheerful minimalist decor. Staff was friendly and knowledgeable. I didn't eat anything, but the store also offers a range of baked goods that looked tasty.
I bought a pound to go, had it ground for my French press coffeemaker, and am enjoying a cup as I write. About 80 percent of the goodness is present when made by my $25 Bodum coffee maker.
But if you want the full deal, you gotta try the Clover.
